El Torito

American Statesman's, 

My Statesman:

Campechana seems to mean various things in Spanish. I always associated it with seafood, but at this colorful cafe that serves several fruit smoothies in addition to aguas frescas, the name indicates an overflowing taco of juicy, seared al pastor and strands of pliable beef fajita meat served with a fat feather of bright avocado in airy homemade corn tortillas. A red salsa layered with chile de arbol gives a smoky finish to the meaty combo. With glowing fat still clinging to the roasted beef, the barbacoa taco is as lush as you’ll find, and puffed and bronzed tortilla chips fried in house leave a lingering sweetness like dessert.